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[其他] 什么是‘波浪爬升与砰击模型’?海洋工程,半潜平台

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发表于 2009-3-4 16:40 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式 来自: 日本
什么是‘波浪爬升与砰击模型’?海洋工程,半潜平台
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龙船学院
发表于 2009-6-12 04:11 | 显示全部楼层 来自: 美国
Wave runup is the maximum vertical extent of wave uprush on a beach or structure above the still water level (SWL) (Sorensen, 1997).  This definition is depicted in the figure below.

Wave runup is an important process in causing and or promoting bluff erosion.  Wave runup may cause erosion by directly impacting the bluff, dislodging material, and redistributing it to the foreshore and nearshore.  Wave runup promotes bluff erosion by carrying failed bluff material away from the toe of the bluff, regardless of what caused failure and erosion of the bluff.  For example, a small slump due to elevated groundwater levels may carry material to the bluff toe.  If this material remained at the toe, it would act to stabilize the bluff.  However, if wave runup removes the material, then the bluff is less stable and more prone to direct wave attack.  

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